Rome, Day One

Lesley and I were at the train station by 6,20 Friday morning to meet Helen and our classmates for the (really) big field trip to Rome! While I was extremely excited to be going to the Italian capitol (not to mention capitol of ancient Rome), I was pretty apprehensive about our intense touring schedule. It turned out that I was justified in my fears! My classmates and I were run ragged throughout the weekend. I am actually a little sick as I write this due, no doubt, to the incredible effort and lack of sleep. But as I literally got to see nearly every major item of interest in Rome in the course of a mere three days, I suppose I can hardly complain.
Upon our arrival at Rome Termini circa 8,30, we boarded a public bus that brought us to a stop along Largo Argentina directly across the street from a number of ruins now inhabited by swarms of cats. We walked a short distance to the Hotel Smeraldo (Emerald Hotel) where we dropped off our baggage in a locked room as it was too early for us to check in. We then began a walk that took us past the Palazzo Farnese which has a balcony designed by Michelangelo but now serves as the French Embassy. We then walked over the Tiber River by way of the Ponte Sisto (built by the same pope, Sixtus IV, who had the Sistine Chapel built) and up the Gianicolo Hill to San Pietro in Montorio in whose courtyard one find Bramante’s Tempietto! The Tempietto is the first building of the High Renaissance that sees completion and is its most important small monument. Made on the fictional site of Peter’s martyrdom (he was crucified upside-down in the Circus Maximus, I believe), it is based both on ancient temples and Early Christian martyr monuments. It is really awesome and I took a ton of pictures of it (just for you, Dad).
Walking back out of the courtyard, we took some time to look at the view from the Gianicolo Hill, which was fantastic. We then walked back down the hill to the Villa Farnesina which was decorated with tons of frescos, some by Raphael. It had just been restored so we got see all the wonderful, brilliant colors in Raphael’s Galatea. But the setting, the absolute incrustation of fresco painting, was incredible. Apparently, the best parties in Rome where given there.
We then walked (and walked and walked) to the Vatican City and into the unexpectedly short line for the Vatican museums. As the wait in line was to be our lunch break (we had been cautioned to bring picnic lunches with us), we were all trying to eat as quickly as possible! As it was, I still had to finish a pear in one of the courtyards. After entering the museums and having a very quick break, we entered the Pinacoteca (“Picture Gallery,” from Greek) where among many other things, we saw Leonardo da Vinci’s unfinished St. Jerome and Raphael’s tear-inducing (I would know) artistic statement, The Transfiguration. Since my survey art history class with my dad, The Transfiguration has been one of my favorite works of art in the world. I can’t possibly communicate what it meant to me to actually see it. Its presence was incredible.
We then emptied out into the Belvedere Collection of antiquities where we saw the Belvedere Apollo, the Laocoon, and the Belvedere Torso, all works that had huge impacts on Renaissance artists, especially Michelangelo who was present in Rome for the rediscovery of the Laocoon. I had never really put this together before but, as a matter of interest, “Belvedere” means “good to see.”
We also passed through many more rooms, such as the Hall of Maps, before we got to the Stanze of Julius II, two of which were done totally by Raphael. Probably the most famous of these frescos is The School of Athens which adorns the “philosophy” side of what was once the pope’s private library. My favorite, however, is the Liberation of St. Peter from Prison, which has the most incredible visionary light that blends with the light from the window directly beneath it. It is meant to allude to Julius II’s liberation from the French and as such, St. Peter is painted with that pope’s features. It is also interesting to note that before becoming pope, Julius was a cardinal at San Pietro in Vincoli, or, St. Peter in Chains. These sorts of works are always laced with multiple layers of meaning and reference.
Now it was time to go to the Sistine Chapel! I think the thing that saved me from bursting into excited tears was the amount of jostling I received from other tourists and the necessity of alertness lest I be trampled underfoot. We didn’t stay nearly long enough but I suppose I could have spent an entire day just there (minus the hoards of other people) as long as I had a neck brace to support my poor head while trying to view the ceiling!
Shortly afterwards, we arrived at the entrance to St. Peter’s Basilica, which really ought to be called, “The Most Impressively Vast Space You Will Ever Enter.” It is, actually, the largest church in the world followed by St. Paul’s in England, the Milan Cathedral, and the Florence Cathedral. It was so huge. To the right of the entrance is located, behind a wall of what must be bullet-proof glass, Michelangelo’s first Pietà, which, like Raphael’s Transfiguration, has been for some time one of my favorite works. It was not as moving to see as I had hoped, mainly due to its high amount of security (it was attacked in modern times by a madman with a hammer or some other equally damaging tool) and jockeying crowd. I also wish that I had been able to see it from the back. Also, it was set so far back from the glass that it was impossible to read Michelangelo’s rather large signature (this is the only work he ever signed) and so high up that one could not see into Mary’s lap, which is the intended viewpoint of the piece.
We then made our way down the nave towards the Baldachin and altar. The Baldachin is this giant temple-type bronze structure with Solomonic columns by the Baroque artist Bernini (who I love) that adorns the place under which the actual body of St. Peter is buried. Through it can be seen the Cattedra Petri, also by Bernini, which is like a theatrically elevated throne of St. Peter located under and taking theatrical advantage of the westernmost window of the church. I really admire that about Baroque art: they used everything—architecture, sculpture, painting, natural and illusionary light—in a synthesis together to create theatrical compositions that seem to freeze a moment in time. They’re basically the earliest installation projects.
We also saw a number of other works by Bernini in St. Peters’s as well as many gigantic tombs of former popes. While we were waiting to go into the Treasure Rooms, a service began and it really completed the experience of viewing the art as it was all meant to compliment the real function of the space: liturgy.
When we left the interior of St. Peter’s we spent some time in the Piazza San Pietro discussing, among other things, the contributions to the façade of the Basilica made by Michelangelo and the Piazza’s great arms by Bernini. We then rode the subway to Piazza del Popolo. I found out later that there was a poor girl in our group who was not watching her things and had her wallet stolen.
For this last part of the day, we looked at Caravaggio and Bernini in Santa Maria del Popolo, discussed the twin churches of Santa Maria di Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli, and viewed and discussed the Spanish Steps and the Fountain of the Barcaccia.
Finally, at around 8,00, it was time to return to the hotel and check-in. After we had our things in our room, Lesley and I found a restaurant that had been recommended by Helen called L’Insalata Ricca (The Rich Salad). I ordered one that included apples, fresh walnuts, and gorgonzola. We also both had dessert; I ordered some sort of torta with pinoli, or pine nuts. It was a very good dinner and quite reasonably priced. Afterwards, we only had enough energy to walk back to the hotel, set our alarms, and crash.
Oh yes, I forgot to mention last week that on Wednesday I got to go to the Medici Chapels in San Lorenzo. Of particular interest, of course, was the New Sacristy, designed by Michelangelo with a double tomb for the Magnifici Lorenzo and Giuliano and tombs for the later Medici dukes Lorenzo and Giuliano. We also got to go to the Laurentian Library and Reading Room—also designed by Michelangelo. The entrance hall in particular was awesome! Michelangelo never got to see it though: it was constructed while he was an ex-patriot Florentine in Rome at the end of his life. He just sent back a clay model of it with instructions! I think it was actually built by Vasari.